Beijing has its 'first Gourmet pizza' in rockstar restaurateur Omar Maseroli's (Fiume
) latest opening above Fiume on the bank of the Liangma river.
Lievito is cut more of the brutalist design cloth than Maseroli’s previous efforts; a bold (if cold) bare grey stone aesthetic instead drawing the diner’s attention to their opposite. That and the gorgeous, 48 hour-raised dough that separates them.
The menu is split into 'classic' – the margherita a steal at 68RMB – and 'gourmet' pizzas, with calzone and panzerotti as back up further in.
Cut at the table, Lievito's pies are notably thicker and with sturdier, chewier form than their Beijing contemporaries. The pomodoro that lines the red pies is lively and rich, and is an infallible baseline above which classic toppings like the capricciosa and Devil in Me (diavola) can do their thing – the latter elevated by fragrant nubs of 'nduja sausage. The ricotta-filled Stuffed Crust proffers one of Lievito’s rare light-hearted moments, but blanketed with salty swaths of speck ham, sautéed porcini mushrooms, walnuts and fior di latte, this is anything but a joke pizza. A sterner experience than, say, Bottega
, but no less worthy.
Dinner for two with wine 500RMB
By Fabio Greensdale